Day 4. Pamplona

VG in the morning light

I was perhaps a bit tired and emotional last night. A third visit to VG this morning - in very cold morning air - took me to the historic centre which was immaculately clean and shining in the early morning sun, giving cause for hope. Especially since I had just managed to purchase a rail ticket for Pamplona for a measily €5. I thought he had said €50 which I would have paid without demur since it moves me east by about two days cycling and gives my knee a bit more rest. 

I then found a room in Pamp via airbnb with an english-speaking host, Johio (as in the American state but with a silent J) so we're back on track! My main worry is whether they'll throw a wobbly when they see the bike at the train station...

[Later]

Rubbish night's sleep since the campsite was about 100m from a major autoroute and there was a party nearby. Also fireworks, possibly in the town, at an absurdly late hour! Tossed and turned in tiny tent til  late but had a nice dream about Fi using a special conservation-grade hi-tech bit of kit to boil her jewellry and keep it clean, as you would! 

Assorted messages from home, including updates from Shirl about Grace and TJ about the hidden cultural life of VG.

[Later still: in Pampers next day]

Last night Johio took me to a lovely tapas bar in the old town, and showed me where Hemingway used to hang out. But I wasn't in the mood - too anxious about what lay ahead, about how to get back on my own to her flat (*miles across a park) and how to pack up my stuff to send to June today. In the event it was fairly painless. I bought some boxes from the post office, found a local square (wire-haired dackle alert!) and packed, taped up, and labelled it all in the street! €80 to you senor.