Day 43-46. And now for something completely different.

Croatia is a bit of a cultural eye opener. It's a lovely place for a holiday, especially if you're lucky enough to have a boat.  The people are friendly, many understanding English, there are western shopping malls, plenty of healthy food, cheap booze and the weather's great. 

But I wouldn't want to live there (sorry Graham!).  I find that bullet holes in buildings always make something of a negative impression on me, bomb holes in roofs even more so. The boys and I got a bit lost in Belfast earlier this year, while on our surfing tour of Ireland, and found ourselves in a street that looked like  a war zone: abandoned houses, bullet-marked walls, glass everywhere - even the boys were a bit surprised. 

Less than 20 miles away from the comfortable bars of Starigrad Paklenica are villages that were ethnically cleansed of Serbs, bombed out schools and people with long memories. In particular they remember the Croatian war hero General Ante Gotovina who was 'sacrificed' to the UN War Crimes Tribunal and is now spending 24years in prison for his part in the cleansing process. 

Update
On 16th November 2012, the generals were acquitted of war crimes (see this BBC News story) which will, I imagine, perpetuate Serbian resentment for another generation!

"Prepared to defend our home and homeland. We'll protect Ante Gotovina." 

(That's not a translation of this poster but a reflection of its ethos.)

Like many westerners I knew all too little about this incredibly complicated war whose roots reach back hundreds of years, way before Tito imposed order on these countries  in the aftermath of the second world war. Even after watching an excellent series about it with Graham on Youtube, I feel I have only skimmed the surface of what it was all about. 

I met nothing but kindness in Croatia and will certainly try to get back there for an activity holiday soon. But with historically high levels of unemployment, a barely functioning economy,  and a macho culture, it feels like a country that still has a way to go. 

Me too!