I didn't really expect to be coming to Taranto but that's how it's worked out. It is, in case you, like me, were uncertain, to be found pretty much on the 'instep' of Italy. It's a large, industrial city; it's home to the current Italian fleet (the British sank an earlier version in 1940); and it has one of the largest steelworks in Europe which emits vast amounts of dioxin and, consequently, the area has very high rates of cancer.
Faded charm or actually just grotty?
But, of course, the city is charming in that chaotic, faded grandeur way that the Italians do so well and, as I wandered over the Pont S. Francesco da Paola, an old swing bridge that separates the fortified city from the new town, I noticed that the mesh fencing was covered with lots of small padlocks.
Closer inspection revealed that these are tokens of unbreakable affection between lovers. Many are adorned with the couple's name or a little heart; some simply state 'Amore eterno'. In the midst of the blaring horns and general traffic chaos, this was a lovely little testimony to the romantic Italian heart.
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| Let's hope the people who put them there are still as firmly attached... |
Alas I shall be leaving all this behind as I head off towards strike-torn Athens. I have decided that this is to be the end of the cycling element of my journey, since I'll be going on from here by public transport and Larkspur will be whisked back to the UK in the belly of a plane. I estimate that we've covered about 2600 km together on this trip - and the saddle is still uncomfortable!
Rather better quality graffiti than yer average
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